DOWNTOWN LA: WHY NOW’S THE TIME TO VISIT AMERICA’S HIPPEST ‘HOOD

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The Nickel Diner’s grill is sizzling.

Around it, sitting in burgundy leather banquettes by wooden tables, customers are tucking into a mix of pancakes, egg scrambles and Flat Iron steaks. Ceiling fans whir lazily. A Virgin Mary statuette is embossed in velvet.

I wasn’t sure this was the place, until I stepped inside and saw a sign.

It said: ‘This is the place. There is no place quite like this place anywhere near this place, so this must be the place.’

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